# Installing a rapid-trigger PCB in an HHKB

## Introduction

I’ve been the happy owner of an HHKB Professional Hybrid Type-S for a few years now. I love everything about it, except that as a Counter-Strike player, it keeps me from using the features newer gaming keyboards offer, like rapid trigger.

I could have bought a second keyboard dedicated to gaming. Price isn’t really the issue since there are now a bunch of hall-effect keyboards under 100 euros or even under 50 euros. However, my minimalism restricted me from having two keyboards with one being only used for gaming. I could have also switched only to a well-built gaming keyboard, but that would have made the experience on my computer worse most of the time for maybe better performance in games.

So my solution was to buy an aftermarket PCB with rapid trigger, made by [Cipulot](https://www.lusvsolutions.com/personal-boards/ec-pro-x). It has other upsides too: much more layout and key customization, multiple layers, and everything configurable from a web interface. However, there are three downsides that you should know:

1. The PCB is wired only, so no Bluetooth anymore. I don’t really mind, since I wouldn’t use Bluetooth anyway because of the added latency and reduced security.
2. Opening the case voids your warranty.
3. There’s plenty of content on the firmware side, but I couldn’t find any on installing the hardware. It’s really easy and there’s little risk if you take your time, but I figured I might as well write up a quick walkthrough.

## Process

### Removing keycaps (NOT NEEDED)

You do NOT need to remove the keycaps. I did it anyway to give the board a full clean while I was at it. I’m only mentioning it because you’ll see in the following pictures that the keycaps are off.

[![Keycaps removed](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8054_hu_23b49a60d5932c6b.webp)](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8054.JPG)

PS: If you do remove the keycaps, keep track of where they go as different rows have different heights.

### Opening the case

To open the case, first remove the three screws. Two of those are visible from the back. The third one is in the battery compartment and only visible if you remove the anti-tamper / warranty adhesive.

[![Side screws](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8055_hu_ee255042466c4c9d.webp)](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8055.JPG)

[![Mid screw (rip warranty)](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8058_hu_311b82c830614a55.webp)](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8058.jpg)

Once the screws are out, gently open the case just enough to disconnect the ribbon cable linking the two halves.

[![Ribbon cable](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8063_hu_857267103b1b151c.webp)](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8063.jpg)

### Remove the PCBs

[![Domes stuck to the lifted PCB](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8067_hu_82d913347c7bdcd1.webp)](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8067.jpg)

Next, remove both PCBs. The one on the underside is easy: it’s only held by two screws. On the other side, however, you will need to remove **18** screws. After removing those you will then be able to lift the PCB.

Here you have two choices, either you lift it with the keyboard upside down to try and keep the domes and springs in place or you just remove it the other way and put them back later. I wanted to do the first method, but maybe because it hadn’t been opened since I bought it, most of the domes ended up sticking to the PCB so I had to just place them all back myself, which wasn’t that bad so no pressure here.

Make sure every dome is placed correctly and every spring stands upright, not on its side, or those keys won’t work and you will need to redo everything.

[![Domes and springs placed](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8069_hu_2ac3a4c24486f4c1.webp)](/blog/hhkb-rapid-trigger/DSCF8069.jpg)

### Installing the new PCB

Lay the new PCB on top and screw it to the top case using the same holes as the old one (use the old one as a blueprint, a lot of holes look like screw holes but aren’t). Do the same for the smaller board in the bottom half. Then connect the two boards with the new cable provided, and you should be good.

Before closing the case, you can plug the keyboard in and check that everything works. The keys won’t work properly until you’ve calibrated the board. Cipulot has a [video tutorial](https://youtu.be/Q4fDkv0Z1bM) for that.

## Was it worth it?

For 60 euros and a reasonable amount of time, I now have rapid trigger and a lot more functionality on my HHKB. Considering what the keyboard itself costs, another 60 euros for the added functionality and versatility isn’t bad at all. Personally, I find rapid trigger only really noticeable when counter-strafing, so if you don’t play games where this is a core mechanic, I’m not sure it’s worth it for you.

After going without it for so long, it took some getting used to, for two reasons. First, to hold a key (to keep walking or revive in some games I guess) I had to learn to keep it firmly pressed, because even a slight lift releases it. Second, a quick tap like a counter-strafe now registers with much less travel than I was used to. After only a week of using it and still changing my settings often I already find it much better for gaming without changing anything for other tasks.